Tuesday, November 29, 2011

10 Natural Ways to Keep Your Parrot Talons and Beaks Trimmed

!±8± 10 Natural Ways to Keep Your Parrot Talons and Beaks Trimmed

Keeping your parrots nails and beak worn down naturally is a constant battle. Nobody wants to take their parrot to the vet to have their beaks or nails trimmed and I'm sure your parrot doesn't want to make that trip. This is uncomfortable for you, uncomfortable for your parrot and very costly!

This isn't a problem in the wild because their environment provides them ample opportunities to wear down their beak and nails. You too can prevent this problem (or at least minimize it) naturally by duplicating their natural environment.

Here are ten ways to naturally help your parrot keep their talons and beak worn down.

Tips For the Nails
Provide a lot of rough and/or concrete perches for your parrot to climb on. This gives their feet exercise and more importantly it helps your parrot keep their nails trimmed naturally. Provide your parrot a lot of incentive to climb around and get exercise (toys, foraging items, etc). Now that you've given them rough perches (See #1 above) to climb on, now you have to get them to climb. Make it fun and they'll thank you for it. Provide toys that encourage your parrot to use their feet. This can be hanging toys that they have to grab and hold or foot toys that they have to hold. Provide foraging toys and make them use their feet to forage for food. This may be foraging items they hold in their 'hands' or hanging foraging toys that they hang from while foraging. Either way, they have to use their feet which is another opportunity to wear down their nails. Provide your parrot with opportunities to walk and play on flat ground. A lot of parrots (especially the African Grey) spend a lot of time on the ground foraging and feeding. This naturally helps them keep their talons worn down so try to duplicate this natural behavior when possible.
Tips For the Beak
The same rough perches that helps your parrot keep their nails worn down also helps them keep their beaks worn down. Parrots use their perches as napkins while eating and wipe their beaks on the perch to keep them clean. This naturally helps to keep their beak worn down. Providing your parrot a lot of soft foods (veggies and fruits) makes their beak messy and encourages them to wipe their beak on the rough perches. So give them a lot of soft messy foods. The messier the better! Lucky for you and your parrot, there are a lot of healthy messy foods. This includes most veggies and fruits. Provide your parrot a lot of foraging toys of various materials to encourage them to use their beak. Get creative. There are a lot of resources online to show you how to make your own toys to save money. Provide a lot of chew toys (wood, paper, cardboard, etc). You should give them something to destroy at least once a day. This will get expensive if you don't learn to make your own toys. Not only is it good for their beaks and nails, it also keeps them occupied and provides some environmental enrichment. Occasionally give them nuts to open up (help them by starting the crack if you need to). Too many nuts is not healthy but giving them a nut occasionally is okay and beneficial. Of course most birds are nuts about nuts (sorry I couldn't resist) so don't go overboard because they'll probably eat all of them that you give them.
These tips will go a long way toward helping to keep your parrot's beak and nails trimmed naturally.

If you don't follow these tips and need to get their nails and beaks trimmed, your first choice should be to take your parrot to a vet. You can do serious damage while trimming a beak or nails if you don't know what you are doing.

If these don't work and you can't/won't take it to a vet. You can always learn to do it yourself. The easiest way to do it is to train your bird to allow you to use a Dremel tool. WARNING! Trimming the beak incorrectly can cause serious damage and death! If you damage the beak, the beak will become sore, and if the beak becomes sore, the bird won't be able to eat and if the bird can't eat...I think you see where this is going. So I don't recommend this method on the beak unless you know what you're doing. You can also do serious damage to the nails if you don't know what you are doing. It is recommended that you at least take it to the Vet one time for trimming the beak and nails so the Vet can show you the correct procedure.

After you've been shown the proper procedure by your vet or another qualified person, you can use Clicker training to easily train your bird to allow you to use a Dremel tool on it's nails and/or beak.

You've probably picked up on a theme here. Duplicating your parrots natural environment is key to helping them naturally keep their nails and beak trimmed.


10 Natural Ways to Keep Your Parrot Talons and Beaks Trimmed

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Friday, November 25, 2011

Dremel dog nails, Trimming dog nails with dremel tool, Clipping dog toenails

How I dremel dog nails, step by step instructions using close-up video. www.k-ninedobermans.com Trimming or clipping dog nails with a manual guillotine clipper tool and then a dremel grinder for dog nails. Photos of a dremel tool and dremel trimming technique. Read about trimming and clipping tricks using a dremel on dog toenails. Trimming dog nails can be dangerous, do so at your own risk. We are providing this video for information purposes only.

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Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Oscillating Tool Basics

!±8± Oscillating Tool Basics

It used to be that you only had one oscillating tool to choose from. But as the patents have run out, more and more tool manufactures are coming out with their own oscillating tools. This article considers a few basics to hopefully whet you appetite for these versatile little tools.

An oscillating tool works by moving the blade back and forth very quickly, oscillating if you will. This allows for a very controllable, safe and easy to use tool. I have read that you can put your finger right on the blade and it won't cut you. I am a chicken so I will never know unless I see someone else do it.

Who needs an oscillating type tool? Really these tools have so many uses that most any trade can find a use for them. They can cut many different types of material including plastic, steel, copper, laminate, plywood, drywall and on and on. What are some specific uses? One thing that an oscillating tool is very useful for is for flush cutting. That means if you have to cut a pipe, nail, stud or anything off flush to the wall or floor, these tools will do it. These tools are very useful in installing flooring like laminate, and tile. Most every tool maker shows their tool cutting under the door jamb to install the flooring. Cutting grout out between tile is also easy to do if you have the right cutting blade.

Besides cutting, an oscillating tool is also handy for detail sanding. While they really can't replace an orbital sander for covering larger areas, the many different shape sanding pads allow you to get into tight areas. This makes the tool for many more applications than just a saw would.

You can get an oscillating tool in a cordless or corded version. As with so many tool purchases, what you buy is based on the usual equation: budget, plus use, divided by application, divided by the square root of your tool preference. Or something like that, I failed math. You can find the tools from under 0 to 0. An argument can be made for any to the tools, but I have made the mistake to many times of trying to get by with a tool that isn't quite what I wanted and I was always disappointed. So consider what you need to do with the tool and how often you will use it and make sure you buy the tool you will be happy with. Check out the reviews at Amazon and see what people are saying.

Make sure you check out some of the different kits available for oscillating tools. For one, you usually get a better deal in a kit plus you may get a few extra blades that you wouldn't have bought, but you may find are very useful to have. You may want to consider a remanufactured tool as they come with a warranty and can save you a few dollars.

If you have been considering an oscillating tool, give one a try. You will find them lightweight, easy to use and a great time saver on the job and around the house.


Oscillating Tool Basics

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Friday, November 18, 2011

Sharpening a Bandsaw Blade

!±8± Sharpening a Bandsaw Blade

You undoubtedly consider your bandsaw to be one of the most important tools in your workshop. Any woodworker knows that this is one of the easiest and fastest way to cut wood in precise shapes for any number of potential projects. These versatile tools are a staple of the woodworking shop. No matter what brand or model of bandsaw you own, you will inevitably find that as the blade becomes duller, your saw simply doesn't work as well as it should. Of course, if you hit a rock or embedded nail, or are cutting through green wood that is very abrasive, you may find yourself going through bandsaw blades even faster.

If you're like most woodworkers, you cringe at the thought of expensive blades, but always assumed you had no other choice once the blade became dull. At to per blade, this expense can add up quickly, whether you're a weekend hobbyist or a full-time professional woodworker. Why not consider sharpening the blades to extend their lifespan? Dull bandsaw blades don't have to be thrown out if you can resharpen them to bring back their precise edge. While it is easiest to sharpen blades with fewer teeth per inch, it is even possible to sharpen fine tooth blades. If you're ever sharpened a knife, the process is essentially the same, and it's even possible for those with no knife sharpening experience to sharpen their bandsaw blades.

When sharpening any blade, using proper safety precautions is essential. Sharpening a bandsaw blade requires gloves to protect your hands from the sharp edges of the blade. You must also wear safety goggles. When sharpening the blade of a bandsaw, the first step is to unplug the saw. Then, check for any major defects along the length of the blade, such as a stress crack or major chip. Don't try to resharpen these blades - it's definitely time for a replacement.

Often, a bandsaw blade is sharpened while still on the saw. It is certainly also possible to sharpen the blade after removing it, and depending on the setup in your workshop, it may be more comfortable to work in this manner.

In order to sharpen a bandsaw blade, many woodworkers use a grinding wheel, though there are a couple of other options to consider. Experienced woodworkers may opt to carefully sharpen each and every tooth with a manual method, such as a sharpening stick. Automatic bandsaw sharpeners, however, make short work of what can become a time consuming task. There are machines specially designed for sharpening bandsaws, which will automatically sharpen the blade for you, in addition to grinding wheels and rotary tools such as a Dremel.

With your left hand, hold the blade taut and choose a tooth where you will start sharpening. Make a small mark so that you know where to stop as you reach the end of the sharpening process. The right hand applies pressure with the sharpener, whether it is a sharpening rod, a high-speed rotary tool, or some other method. To resharpen the teeth of the blade, you will be lightly grinding the back of each tooth, in one or two light strokes. Always follow the natural contours of the blade. As you sharpen, bright metal should be exposed along the length of each tooth. As you move along the blade, move it downwards with your gloved hand so that you can access the next tooth.

It should take anywhere from ten to 30 minutes to resharpen the entire blade, tooth by tooth. Woodworkers find that they can usually use the blade through at least 6 to 10 resharpenings before it's time for a replacement.


Sharpening a Bandsaw Blade

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Friday, November 11, 2011

Dremel 7700-02 MultiPro 7.2-Volt 20,000 RPM Two-Speed Rotary Tool with 50 Accessories

!±8±Dremel 7700-02 MultiPro 7.2-Volt 20,000 RPM Two-Speed Rotary Tool with 50 Accessories

Brand : Dremel
Rate :
Price :
Post Date : Nov 11, 2011 08:48:05
N/A



Cordless MULTIPROĆ¢"¢ Tool Kit

7.2V, 2-speed (10,000 and 20,000 RPM). Accepts accessories up to 1/8 IN shank. Shaft lock for easy bit changing. Light and compact design makes it easy to handle. Removable battery with 3 hour charge time. Includes battery, charger, 50 accessories, and storage bag. Refer to model No. 757-01 for replacement battery pack.

Your are ordering Part # 7700-02

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Wednesday, November 9, 2011

You Can Build Your Own Circular Saw Table

!±8± You Can Build Your Own Circular Saw Table

Since circular saws are the portable version of a table saw, they are not meant to be fixed to a table. However, the portability can be a disadvantage if you are trying to make precision cuts such as miters or other angles. To help you make more accurate cuts, you can build a circular saw table in your own shop.

Step 1

Gather your materials which include a 3/4" thick medium density overlay (MDO) in a 36"X16" sheet, a 36"X8 1/2" piece, a 36"X1" piece, and two 36"X1 1/2 " pieces, a pencil, ruler, jigsaw, eight strips of 1"X2" wood, nails, hammer, drill, 1/4" and 1/2" drill bits, screws, circular saw, 1/2" dowel, speed square, and 1/4" carriage bolt.

Step 2

Mark the midpoint 3/4" in from the edge on the long side of the 36"X16" MDO.

Step 3

Using the ruler, mark a radius from this midpoint on that front edge. Next, draw a straight line 10 inches from and parallel to the back edge.

Step 4

To cut out the table that you just marked, use the jigsaw to cut down the 10" line, around the radius, and down the 10" line on the other side. You now have the shape of the table.

Step 5

Flipping the table to its back, nail six strips of the 1"X2" wood to all of the straight edges as the support for the table.

Step 6

Go back to the original midpoint mark on the topside and drill a 1/2" hole in which the dowel will be placed to serve as the pivot for the arm.

Step 7

Down from the hole on this topside, attach two more 1"X2" strips 10 inches long to serve as the fence for the guide.

Step 8

Take the two pieces of MDO that are 36"X1 1/2" and cut a 45-degree angle off of each end. With the angles facing inward, screw these two pieces onto the ends of the 36"X8 1/2" piece of MDO. This makes the carriage with spacers.

Step 9

Screw the 36"X1 1/2" MDO to the edge of the 36"X4" MDO at a 90-degree angle to create a guide lip. Attach this assembly to the support blocks of the carriage with screws. To make the opposite side of the guide, screw the 36"X2" MDO to the other side of the carriage. The circular saw's blade should pass through the gap as it follows the guide lip, but you may need to adjust the gap width for your particular saw.

Step 10

Now, with the saw against the guide lip and the blade in the gap, fix an opposite lip to keep the saw straight as it passing through the carriage by screwing on a 36"X1" strip of MDO on the opposite side.

Step 11

Flip this carriage over and measure down 7 inches from the top edge. Mark the midpoint of the width at this point and drill a 1/2" hole for the dowel.

Step 12

Removing the upper part of the carriage, place the base under the table and tap the 1/2" dowel through both the table and carriage, not allowing the dowel to stick out past the carriage blocks. Then, reattach the upper part of the carriage.

Step 13

Slide the carriage arm as far right as possible. Putting the speed square between the arm and the fence at a 45-degree angle, drill a 1/4" hole through the upper assembly and tabletop to secure the arm with a carriage bolt. Do the same at the 90-degree and 45-degree left angle to make repeated angle cuts.

Your circular saw table is ready to use. Place the wood to be cut against the fence. Line up the arm to the angle that you want. Put the circular saw in the guide arm with a depth set so that you will only cut 1/8" into the table. Make your cut. You can now make accurate angle cuts time after time with your circular saw table.


You Can Build Your Own Circular Saw Table

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Thursday, November 3, 2011

Whites Mxt Metal Detector - It's Worth Every Penny

!±8± Whites Mxt Metal Detector - It's Worth Every Penny

The Whites Mxt metal detector has been receiving nothing but praise from those who have already bought it. What's their common sentiment? The Mxt metal detector is simply loaded with great features that make metal detecting so much easier and fun! So, if you haven't tried a Whites Mxt metal detector yet, consider these features.

Whites Mxt metal detector has three modes of operation: relic hunting, coin and jewelry, and prospecting. All of these modes are pretty valuable and great in serving their purpose. If you're expecting to search in an area with a lot of debris, the coin and jewelry mode is able to do that job without any problems. Plus, the Mxt also adjusts its behavior and sound whenever you switch to the different modes, so that distinguishing among metal objects will be more convenient.

One of the things that make Mxt great is its accurate readings and convenient LCD display screen. The results are very easy to understand, even for a novice, and it helps you make the necessary adjustments. For example, if you're on the coin and jewelry mode, a target that displays a full block on the screen means that Mxt is really confident of its suggestion while a quarter or half block would mean the opposite.

The Mxt metal detector also gives you an iron percentage probability result that lets you distinguish a gold nugget from a ferrous object (e.g. nail). If the result is equal to or less than 10%, it's probably worth the dig compared to a 60%-90% probability.

Ground condition is another aspect of metal detecting that needs to be taken into consideration - rapid changes in ground levels would definitely affect the performance of your device. Fortunately, White's Mxt metal detector's ground balancing feature is a fast and automatic in operation. If the ground isn't balanced, this device would make the required adjustments just after two to three scans of the search head over the ground.

The search coil length helps in determining the amount of depth your device could search. A 12-inches search coil could definitely search deeper into the ground, but it would be a great inconvenience in trash populated areas. Whites Mxt metal detector uses a 9-inches search coil, which would do great on those types of scenarios without decreasing its performance.

The list price of Mxt is 9.95 without the additional accessories. But you might have better luck in getting this at a lower cost through online listing stores or bidding sites. Or you could also try visiting White's metal detector local dealers - they might have unadvertised promos that you could take advantage.

Overall, Whites Mxt metal detector is really a great find that you can enjoy on any treasure hunting trip.


Whites Mxt Metal Detector - It's Worth Every Penny

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