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It's a rare human who actually enjoys clipping a dog's nails; and rarer still, the dog who enjoys it. Enter Dremel's cordless groomer, a quiet, battery-powered rotary tool that gently grinds down your pet's nails without cutting. We happen to know a particular hound named Sophie who's endured more than her share of cracked nails and bleeding nail beds, the result of the standard guillotine-type nail trimmers. Though she was a bit wary of the Dremel, she sniffed at it and decided it was harmless. Then we set it on the floor and turned it on.Sophie seemed concerned for a minute, but then lost interest. We let her get used to the sound of the Dremel for a few minutes, then got down to business. We expected her to cringe and pull away when we took paw in hand, for what usually follows is not pleasant for her. She submitted reluctantly at first to the Dremel, probably expecting the worst, but once we distracted her with a piece of rawhide, she forgot about the nail hubbub and let us carry on.The whole thing was quick and painless, which made a change for Sophie, and was actually kind of soothing for the humans, which definitely made a change for us. We followed the advice in the manual and alternated between two paws at a time, not keeping the abrasive on any nail for more than a couple of seconds, and we made sure each nail was cool before grinding it a second time. If we had a criticism, it would be to wish only that Dremel would include the ½-inch drum for larger dogs like Sophie as well as the smaller one. Other than that, it's a tail-wagger.
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First of all, untrimmed nails cause a lot of problems including broken nails, which are very painful and can bleed profusely. Long nails cause the dog to walk incorrectly and adds undo strain to their legs. They may find it uncomfortable to put their full body weight on their feet with the overgrown nails, causing sore feet, legs and hips. This can lead to development of arthritis and disfiguration.
A lot of owners bring their pets to the vet or a groomer. This can be a very stressful experience for the dog, because there isn't any time to make sure the dog is calm and comfortable. Sometimes, restraint is necessary by using a muzzle and holding them in place. This by no means will make the experience a positive one and so the answer lies with you doing it yourself.
For me, the most important part of this process is to be calm yourself. If you are not then, don't attempt to cut their nails as this will cause a negative experience and they won't forget this either.
Before the Trim:
Exercise your dog. It releases all kinds of pent up energy and allows your best friend to be more pliable. Make sure your dog is already tolerating your touching his paws. While playing or TLC time just keep on touching their paws to make it a very natural thing. Let them smell the tool you are going to be using to trim their nails. Bring a bag of small treats to further entice them. Your demeanor must be of peace and calm. They will sense all your moods so make sure you are peaceful and calm or no matter what you do it will not work. Check yourself first and proceed from there. Dogs can pick up on your stress so be confident and secure before cutting.
Here are 2 Trimming Tools:
1. Clipper Tool
2. Dremel style tool
Trimming nails with clippers
Keep these sharp as dull ones will cause more harm than good. There are 2 different styles to choose form: scissors style and guillotine style.
The guillotine-style clipper has a stationary ring guide through which the toenail is placed, and when the handles are squeezed a cutting blade moves across to slice the nail. Scissors-style clippers are positioned at a right angle to the nail with one blade on either side; squeezing the handles moves both blades together to cut the nail.
You need to avoid cutting the quick, which is the name for the blood vessels and nerves that supply the nail. Cutting the quick can cause bleeding and considerable pain for the dog (and will likely undo much of the work you have put into getting your dog to relax for paw handling!) It is far better to cut small bits off of the dog's nails and do it more frequently than to try cutting too much and running the risk of hitting the quick.
Rewarding the dog after cutting a few nails works really well. This creates a wonderful experience for the dog. Being frustrated or stressed will cause more harm than good. Keep trying until you and your dog have a routine. Belly rubs are acceptable ways of getting them to relax and will of course, relax you as well.
Trimming nails with a Dremel-style rotary tool:
The most important step is to make your dog comfortable. Let him smell and be with the instrument while it's turned off until he is comfortable and then, work with him while it's turned on. Make it a positive experience. If your dog has very long nails it is better to do more frequent grindings of small amounts at first. You can then, plan twice-weekly times and take off a little bit at a time until nails are within the length you want. Make a schedule based on these time tables.
Tips:
o Keep Styptic powder on hand to have in case you do nick the quick and need to stop the bleeding.
o Keep on hand plenty of treats
Keeping your parrots nails and beak worn down naturally is a constant battle. Nobody wants to take their parrot to the vet to have their beaks or nails trimmed and I'm sure your parrot doesn't want to make that trip. This is uncomfortable for you, uncomfortable for your parrot and very costly!
This isn't a problem in the wild because their environment provides them ample opportunities to wear down their beak and nails. You too can prevent this problem (or at least minimize it) naturally by duplicating their natural environment.
Here are ten ways to naturally help your parrot keep their talons and beak worn down.
Tips For the Nails
Provide a lot of rough and/or concrete perches for your parrot to climb on. This gives their feet exercise and more importantly it helps your parrot keep their nails trimmed naturally.
Provide your parrot a lot of incentive to climb around and get exercise (toys, foraging items, etc). Now that you've given them rough perches (See #1 above) to climb on, now you have to get them to climb. Make it fun and they'll thank you for it.
Provide toys that encourage your parrot to use their feet. This can be hanging toys that they have to grab and hold or foot toys that they have to hold.
Provide foraging toys and make them use their feet to forage for food. This may be foraging items they hold in their 'hands' or hanging foraging toys that they hang from while foraging. Either way, they have to use their feet which is another opportunity to wear down their nails.
Provide your parrot with opportunities to walk and play on flat ground. A lot of parrots (especially the African Grey) spend a lot of time on the ground foraging and feeding. This naturally helps them keep their talons worn down so try to duplicate this natural behavior when possible.
Tips For the Beak
The same rough perches that helps your parrot keep their nails worn down also helps them keep their beaks worn down. Parrots use their perches as napkins while eating and wipe their beaks on the perch to keep them clean. This naturally helps to keep their beak worn down.
Providing your parrot a lot of soft foods (veggies and fruits) makes their beak messy and encourages them to wipe their beak on the rough perches. So give them a lot of soft messy foods. The messier the better! Lucky for you and your parrot, there are a lot of healthy messy foods. This includes most veggies and fruits.
Provide your parrot a lot of foraging toys of various materials to encourage them to use their beak. Get creative. There are a lot of resources online to show you how to make your own toys to save money.
Provide a lot of chew toys (wood, paper, cardboard, etc). You should give them something to destroy at least once a day. This will get expensive if you don't learn to make your own toys. Not only is it good for their beaks and nails, it also keeps them occupied and provides some environmental enrichment.
Occasionally give them nuts to open up (help them by starting the crack if you need to). Too many nuts is not healthy but giving them a nut occasionally is okay and beneficial. Of course most birds are nuts about nuts (sorry I couldn't resist) so don't go overboard because they'll probably eat all of them that you give them.
These tips will go a long way toward helping to keep your parrot's beak and nails trimmed naturally.
If you don't follow these tips and need to get their nails and beaks trimmed, your first choice should be to take your parrot to a vet. You can do serious damage while trimming a beak or nails if you don't know what you are doing.
If these don't work and you can't/won't take it to a vet. You can always learn to do it yourself. The easiest way to do it is to train your bird to allow you to use a Dremel tool. WARNING! Trimming the beak incorrectly can cause serious damage and death! If you damage the beak, the beak will become sore, and if the beak becomes sore, the bird won't be able to eat and if the bird can't eat...I think you see where this is going. So I don't recommend this method on the beak unless you know what you're doing. You can also do serious damage to the nails if you don't know what you are doing. It is recommended that you at least take it to the Vet one time for trimming the beak and nails so the Vet can show you the correct procedure.
After you've been shown the proper procedure by your vet or another qualified person, you can use Clicker training to easily train your bird to allow you to use a Dremel tool on it's nails and/or beak.
You've probably picked up on a theme here. Duplicating your parrots natural environment is key to helping them naturally keep their nails and beak trimmed.
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It used to be that you only had one oscillating tool to choose from. But as the patents have run out, more and more tool manufactures are coming out with their own oscillating tools. This article considers a few basics to hopefully whet you appetite for these versatile little tools.
An oscillating tool works by moving the blade back and forth very quickly, oscillating if you will. This allows for a very controllable, safe and easy to use tool. I have read that you can put your finger right on the blade and it won't cut you. I am a chicken so I will never know unless I see someone else do it.
Who needs an oscillating type tool? Really these tools have so many uses that most any trade can find a use for them. They can cut many different types of material including plastic, steel, copper, laminate, plywood, drywall and on and on. What are some specific uses? One thing that an oscillating tool is very useful for is for flush cutting. That means if you have to cut a pipe, nail, stud or anything off flush to the wall or floor, these tools will do it. These tools are very useful in installing flooring like laminate, and tile. Most every tool maker shows their tool cutting under the door jamb to install the flooring. Cutting grout out between tile is also easy to do if you have the right cutting blade.
Besides cutting, an oscillating tool is also handy for detail sanding. While they really can't replace an orbital sander for covering larger areas, the many different shape sanding pads allow you to get into tight areas. This makes the tool for many more applications than just a saw would.
You can get an oscillating tool in a cordless or corded version. As with so many tool purchases, what you buy is based on the usual equation: budget, plus use, divided by application, divided by the square root of your tool preference. Or something like that, I failed math. You can find the tools from under 0 to 0. An argument can be made for any to the tools, but I have made the mistake to many times of trying to get by with a tool that isn't quite what I wanted and I was always disappointed. So consider what you need to do with the tool and how often you will use it and make sure you buy the tool you will be happy with. Check out the reviews at Amazon and see what people are saying.
Make sure you check out some of the different kits available for oscillating tools. For one, you usually get a better deal in a kit plus you may get a few extra blades that you wouldn't have bought, but you may find are very useful to have. You may want to consider a remanufactured tool as they come with a warranty and can save you a few dollars.
If you have been considering an oscillating tool, give one a try. You will find them lightweight, easy to use and a great time saver on the job and around the house.
You undoubtedly consider your bandsaw to be one of the most important tools in your workshop. Any woodworker knows that this is one of the easiest and fastest way to cut wood in precise shapes for any number of potential projects. These versatile tools are a staple of the woodworking shop. No matter what brand or model of bandsaw you own, you will inevitably find that as the blade becomes duller, your saw simply doesn't work as well as it should. Of course, if you hit a rock or embedded nail, or are cutting through green wood that is very abrasive, you may find yourself going through bandsaw blades even faster.
If you're like most woodworkers, you cringe at the thought of expensive blades, but always assumed you had no other choice once the blade became dull. At to per blade, this expense can add up quickly, whether you're a weekend hobbyist or a full-time professional woodworker. Why not consider sharpening the blades to extend their lifespan? Dull bandsaw blades don't have to be thrown out if you can resharpen them to bring back their precise edge. While it is easiest to sharpen blades with fewer teeth per inch, it is even possible to sharpen fine tooth blades. If you're ever sharpened a knife, the process is essentially the same, and it's even possible for those with no knife sharpening experience to sharpen their bandsaw blades.
When sharpening any blade, using proper safety precautions is essential. Sharpening a bandsaw blade requires gloves to protect your hands from the sharp edges of the blade. You must also wear safety goggles. When sharpening the blade of a bandsaw, the first step is to unplug the saw. Then, check for any major defects along the length of the blade, such as a stress crack or major chip. Don't try to resharpen these blades - it's definitely time for a replacement.
Often, a bandsaw blade is sharpened while still on the saw. It is certainly also possible to sharpen the blade after removing it, and depending on the setup in your workshop, it may be more comfortable to work in this manner.
In order to sharpen a bandsaw blade, many woodworkers use a grinding wheel, though there are a couple of other options to consider. Experienced woodworkers may opt to carefully sharpen each and every tooth with a manual method, such as a sharpening stick. Automatic bandsaw sharpeners, however, make short work of what can become a time consuming task. There are machines specially designed for sharpening bandsaws, which will automatically sharpen the blade for you, in addition to grinding wheels and rotary tools such as a Dremel.
With your left hand, hold the blade taut and choose a tooth where you will start sharpening. Make a small mark so that you know where to stop as you reach the end of the sharpening process. The right hand applies pressure with the sharpener, whether it is a sharpening rod, a high-speed rotary tool, or some other method. To resharpen the teeth of the blade, you will be lightly grinding the back of each tooth, in one or two light strokes. Always follow the natural contours of the blade. As you sharpen, bright metal should be exposed along the length of each tooth. As you move along the blade, move it downwards with your gloved hand so that you can access the next tooth.
It should take anywhere from ten to 30 minutes to resharpen the entire blade, tooth by tooth. Woodworkers find that they can usually use the blade through at least 6 to 10 resharpenings before it's time for a replacement.
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Since circular saws are the portable version of a table saw, they are not meant to be fixed to a table. However, the portability can be a disadvantage if you are trying to make precision cuts such as miters or other angles. To help you make more accurate cuts, you can build a circular saw table in your own shop.
Step 1
Gather your materials which include a 3/4" thick medium density overlay (MDO) in a 36"X16" sheet, a 36"X8 1/2" piece, a 36"X1" piece, and two 36"X1 1/2 " pieces, a pencil, ruler, jigsaw, eight strips of 1"X2" wood, nails, hammer, drill, 1/4" and 1/2" drill bits, screws, circular saw, 1/2" dowel, speed square, and 1/4" carriage bolt.
Step 2
Mark the midpoint 3/4" in from the edge on the long side of the 36"X16" MDO.
Step 3
Using the ruler, mark a radius from this midpoint on that front edge. Next, draw a straight line 10 inches from and parallel to the back edge.
Step 4
To cut out the table that you just marked, use the jigsaw to cut down the 10" line, around the radius, and down the 10" line on the other side. You now have the shape of the table.
Step 5
Flipping the table to its back, nail six strips of the 1"X2" wood to all of the straight edges as the support for the table.
Step 6
Go back to the original midpoint mark on the topside and drill a 1/2" hole in which the dowel will be placed to serve as the pivot for the arm.
Step 7
Down from the hole on this topside, attach two more 1"X2" strips 10 inches long to serve as the fence for the guide.
Step 8
Take the two pieces of MDO that are 36"X1 1/2" and cut a 45-degree angle off of each end. With the angles facing inward, screw these two pieces onto the ends of the 36"X8 1/2" piece of MDO. This makes the carriage with spacers.
Step 9
Screw the 36"X1 1/2" MDO to the edge of the 36"X4" MDO at a 90-degree angle to create a guide lip. Attach this assembly to the support blocks of the carriage with screws. To make the opposite side of the guide, screw the 36"X2" MDO to the other side of the carriage. The circular saw's blade should pass through the gap as it follows the guide lip, but you may need to adjust the gap width for your particular saw.
Step 10
Now, with the saw against the guide lip and the blade in the gap, fix an opposite lip to keep the saw straight as it passing through the carriage by screwing on a 36"X1" strip of MDO on the opposite side.
Step 11
Flip this carriage over and measure down 7 inches from the top edge. Mark the midpoint of the width at this point and drill a 1/2" hole for the dowel.
Step 12
Removing the upper part of the carriage, place the base under the table and tap the 1/2" dowel through both the table and carriage, not allowing the dowel to stick out past the carriage blocks. Then, reattach the upper part of the carriage.
Step 13
Slide the carriage arm as far right as possible. Putting the speed square between the arm and the fence at a 45-degree angle, drill a 1/4" hole through the upper assembly and tabletop to secure the arm with a carriage bolt. Do the same at the 90-degree and 45-degree left angle to make repeated angle cuts.
Your circular saw table is ready to use. Place the wood to be cut against the fence. Line up the arm to the angle that you want. Put the circular saw in the guide arm with a depth set so that you will only cut 1/8" into the table. Make your cut. You can now make accurate angle cuts time after time with your circular saw table.
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